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LA Blade staff writer Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in a new weekly Sunday column
‘Editor’s Note: What happens when you have a pandemic and a bored stay-at-home political reporter with extra time on his hands? LA Blade staff writer Christopher Kane decided that he would pursue his second love and passion of cooking and now he’s sharing the results in a new weekly Sunday column.
WASHINGTON – Some of you have been asking me to share an easy recipe. That makes me sound like a wannabe beauty influencer (nobody has been asking you for skincare tips, Stephanie), but it’s true! I swear. Be sure to “like” and smash that “subscribe” button.
So, I was originally going to give you a scratch-made cherry cream cheese kouign-amann danish, but to be honest with you, it’s been a long week. This morning I woke up bleary eyed and dehydrated like I’d been partying with Madison Cawthorn (to be clear, I would never.)
And besides, my most fervent wish is for this column to make cooking more accessible and lower the barriers to entry – which would not be accomplished by describing the complicated technique required to create buttery layers of dough that puff up like a croissant.
Let’s get to it. Today, it IS about the Pasta! Pasta la vista, baby.
That gif was mostly for me. But I hope at least one of you share my taste for trashy reality TV and got a kick out of it. Moving on.
We are making rigatoni with vodka sauce. Made with pantry staples, it comes together quickly and easily. The underlined instructions are techniques that should be used for literally every pasta dish you will ever make – so, in a way, I’m showing you how to prepare pasta rather than just rigatoni with vodka sauce.
Kane’s cuisine: Chicken Milanese
Kane’s cuisine: Chicken Milanese
Kane’s Cuisine – Salt, revisited
Kane’s cuisine: Choose your own baking adventure
LA Blade staff writer Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in a new weekly Sunday column
Editor’s Note: What happens when you have a pandemic and a bored stay-at-home political reporter with extra time on his hands? LA Blade staff writer Christopher Kane decided that he would pursue his second love and passion of cooking and now he’s sharing the results in a new weekly Sunday column.
WASHINGTON – This chicken breast may be boneless, but like a twink on an Atlantis cruise it’s been pounded within an eighth of an inch of its life.
When it comes to poultry, I prefer bone-in/skin-on, for reasons that I will doubtlessly explain in a future column, but there is something special about this dish.
Chicken schnitzel, chicken Milanese, katsu, tonkatsu…there are some regional differences in how it’s prepared, but the point is to take a large, flat-bottomed object (I prefer using my All-Clad fry pan) to a boneless skinless piece of meat (usually chicken, but often pork chops and occasionally steak) until it’s very thin – and then bread and pan-fry it in oil or butter.
I will not and would never lie to you: it’s not an inconsiderable amount of work. Unless you have the time and ambition (or, and this is key, someone who is willing to clean up), I wouldn’t recommend attempting this on a weeknight. Hear me out, though – it’s hard to screw up and it’s sure to impress.
Another thing: people will tell you that you must coat the meat in flour before dredging it in the egg wash and applying the breadcrumbs. I’m here to tell you the flour adds nothing. It’s an unnecessary step. Try it without the flour and tell me you missed it. You won’t.
Unless you live in the Bavarian Alps, serving a breaded and fried piece of meat with something starchy like potatoes or rice would be…a lot. So, try it with this lemony salad instead.
For our purposes, let’s say you’re using chicken and let’s call it chicken Milanese.
This salad, especially when paired with chicken Milanese, is the perfect opportunity to use your preserved lemons. Another callback to a previous column! For the record, I totally forgot to add them until after my husband had snapped these photos. So, look at the salad pictured here and try to imagine it has a preserved lemon wedge diced up and tossed in. Delicious.
To make the dressing, combine equal parts tahini and lemon juice. Add some olive oil (if you’re using a quarter cup each of tahini and lemon juice, it should be about three tablespoons olive oil. Adjust your measurements accordingly.) Add a garlic clove, either grated with a microplane or finely diced, and season with salt and pepper
LA Blade staff writer Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in a new weekly Sunday column
Editor’s Note: What happens when you have a pandemic and a bored stay-at-home political reporter with extra time on his hands? LA Blade staff writer Christopher Kane decided that he would pursue his second love and passion of cooking and now he’s sharing the results in a new weekly Sunday column.
WASHINGTON – Today, I have some ground to cover on the subject of salt, which seems appropriate in light of Justice Samuel Alito’s tremendously salty draft opinion overturning Americans’ reproductive freedoms.
A few years ago, Tina Fey caught some flak for a Saturday Night Live sketch in which she joked about bingeing on sheet cake to feel better about the Nazis marching through Charlottesville. Anyway, things are still bad five years later, so let’s talk about food and pretend like this country isn’t slipping into the nightmare dystopia imagined in Margaret Atwood’s “The Handmaid’s Tale.” Okay? Okay?!
Why am I serving salt in today’s column instead of a recipe? Well, it’s because learning about the mineral’s different varieties and how best to use them for maximum impact (flavor. I’m talking about flavor.) is absolutely essential for cooking and baking. (Also, spoiler alert: there is a recipe at the end. You’re welcome.)
I don’t know you, but I can tell you’re not seasoning your food sufficiently. This is because most people aren’t; because chefs’ and skilled home cooks’ institutional knowledge about salt has not, for the most part, shaped consumer behavior in the ways that it should.
After reading this column, I want you to see the plate pictured here with the three mounds of small white crystals and be able to identify them as types of salt rather than…whatever else it was that you thought they were. Hey, no judgment from me!
If you were to consult Gordon Ramsay or Ina Garten or [insert culinary artist of your choosing] about their practices and preferences, practically everyone would recommend kosher salt for most seasoning purposes and most would suggest finishing at least some savory and sweet dishes with either flaky sea salt or fleur de sel.
(Table salt, with its cube shaped crystals and high sodium content, is not to be used for either of these purposes. But before you toss it out, make sure you are getting enough iodine from other sources in your diet, because it is an essential nutrient.)
With substantially less sodium by volume and an uneven, flaky texture, Diamond Crystal is the brand of choice for kosher salt because you will be less likely to over-season your food past the point of no return, and the crystals will adhere better to what you’re cooking rather than bouncing off as table salt is prone to do.
Fleur de sel and Maldon flaky sea salt are not exactly interchangeable. The former is more expensive and often comes in a yellowish or grayish hue, which is because it is harvested by hand. Regardless, they serve essentially the same functions: enhancing the flavor and appearance of your dishes. You’ll notice the surface area of both salts is much greater than kosher or table salt crystals, but their flavor is milder because they’re hollow (which also makes for a nice crunch). And seriously, look at the watermelon salad pictured here. There is a reason virtually all recipes pictured in cookbooks have a sprinkling of Maldon on top. It can make a bowl of microwaved ramen noodles look gourmet.
To make the watermelon salad, combine equal parts watermelon and cucumber. Drizzle with good olive oil and top with herbs like cilantro or basil. Season to taste with kosher salt, measuring as you go. When it starts tasting delicious, double the amount of sumac and sprinkle the spice over top of your salad. Finish with fleur de sel or Maldon flaky sea salt.
LA Blade staff writer Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in a new weekly Sunday column
Editor’s Note: What happens when you have a pandemic and a bored stay-at-home political reporter with extra time on his hands? LA Blade staff writer Christopher Kane decided that he would pursue his second love and passion of cooking and now he’s sharing the results in a new weekly Sunday column.
WASHINGTON – Has the spate of anti-LGBTQ bills under consideration in statehouses across the country dampened your spirits? Does the phrase “Speaker of the House Kevin McCarthy” make you want to open a vein?
Well, neither of the following two recipes will fix these problems, but if avoidance is your thing and you’re currently eating carbs, this week I humbly present for your consideration: A very good and very pretty lemon cake that also happens to be very easy & A tasty sourdough loaf for readers who want to challenge themselves.
Unlike, famously, most men on Grindr, this lemony turmeric tea cake is ready to back up claims about its “versatility,” and we celebrate that here at The Los Angeles Blade.
The recipe below, adapted from Alison Roman’s cookbook, “Nothing Fancy,” reliably turns out a delicious baked good that can host or travel and is as welcome at a potluck or dinner party (or a Memorial Day barbecue!) as it is on your counter. This bad boy once traveled with me from Washington to Tampa, where it was such a hit that I was dispatched to the nearest Publix for lemons to bake a second one.
Anyway, here’s the recipe. Credit to Alison Roman.
A sourdough loaf from “Tartine Bread”: I have never been to Tartine, the restaurant in San Francisco whose bread is so popular that patrons begin lining up around the building before it opens (very early in the morning, I might add). Much like everything else in San Francisco, demand for the bread far exceeds its supply, so it regularly sells out – which, again, is pretty on-brand for the city. And even though I have not sampled it myself, I bought into the hype (speaking of things that are on-brand).
In 2010, owner and master baker Chad Robertson published “Tartine Bread,” which has since become widely regarded as the essential manual for expert bread baking. So, I snagged a copy and created a sourdough loaf so delicious that it really blew my mind. It was not easy.
I will not share the recipe here for the country sourdough loaf pictured in this article, partially because would not be able to include the photos and detailed instruction in “Tartine Bread,” which perform two essential functions: (1) helping to make the bread baking process a bit easier for home cooks who perhaps have not apprenticed under the finest artisan bakers in France, and (2) making for a cookbook that can also serve as a coffee table book.
What I will say is this – the Anova Precision Oven is a fantastic tool for the job, as is the baking steel pictured. It’s become indispensable in my tiny urban kitchen. More on that in the future.
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