A brief history of the Athens watch era

2021-12-14 23:59:11 By : Ms. Xiao Qiao XU

The new Marine Torpileur model celebrates 175 years of innovation

As the head of brand heritage, Massimo Bonfigli is immersed in the 175-year history of Ulysse Nardin.

If he could do some time travel, the natives of Neuchâtel would go back to 1878 and congratulate Paul-David Nardin for his pocket and nautical chronometer for winning the gold medal at the Paris World Exposition.

"I would love to work with Paul-David Nardin, son of Ulysse Nardin. He is a talented man who has contributed to the improvement of timepieces. He is an outstanding watchmaker and an outstanding watchmaker. Businessman," Bonfiglioli said.

Since Ulysse Nardin was founded in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1846, chronographs have always been an area of ​​the company. He developed precision marine chronometers and complex pocket watches for the era of ocean exploration and international trade.

The founder died prematurely in 1876, prompting his son to take the helm of the family business. Paul-David Nardin further established his reputation as a master of the nautical observatory, and he won the commission of an excellent watch competition and an indispensable navigation tool.

By 1900, he had built nine pocket chronometers equipped with tourbillon escapements to improve accuracy.

“When I started working at Athens Watch in 2000, I was surprised to discover the precision mechanical timepieces that the company made at the end of the 19th century,” Bonfiglioli said.

Ulysse Nardin has provided products to more than 50 navies, geodetic research institutes and observatories. Its pocket observatory is the most dreamed and precious of naval officers and merchant captains from all over the world.

Professional knowledge is guaranteed by winning awards. In 1975, the Neuchâtel Observatory issued the last official publication on the performance of the observatory from 1846 to 1975. According to this report, Ulysse Nardin has won 747 first prizes and many other honors for its deck watches, pocket watches and wristwatches.

Today, starting from Le Locle and La Chaux-de-Fonds, Freedom Watch Factory promotes the development of its high-end watches through four pillars: Marine, Diver, Blast and Freak.

The Marine Torpileur series celebrates its 175th anniversary and the inheritance of timekeeping technology.

As a new generation observatory for contemporary explorers, Marine Torpileur was launched in 2017. It is named after small, fast torpedo boats whose agility ensures that they can easily surpass larger ships.

Marine Torpileur Panda has two black eyes on a white lacquered dial.

In terms of marine animals, the shark represents the brand's exploratory spirit.

"The image of a shark corresponds to a free explorer in a difficult world. The shark is a majestic animal at the top of the food chain. It fits perfectly with the image we want to convey," Bonfiglioli said.

Ulysse Nardin is dedicated to the protection of sharks and oceans, and the 175th anniversary watch is compatible with the R strap made from recycled fishing nets.

The commemorative model uses a stainless steel case, including Marine Torpilleur Panda, two versions of chronograph with annual calendar and two versions with moon phase complications.

"The new Marine Torpileur models share design specifications and nautical DNA, such as fluted bezels, dual counters, Roman numerals and cathedral hands, as well as in-house manufactured movements," he pointed out.

Marine Torpilleur Chronograph of the Year with white lacquered dial.

The 42mm Marine Torpileur Panda is limited to 300 pieces and features two dark blue counters on the lacquered white dial. Opposite the power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock, the seconds counter at 6 o'clock bears the "Chronometry since 1846" logo.

The 42mm Marine Torpilleur Moonphase and 44mm Marine Torpilleur Annual Chronograph also have 300 pieces to choose from.

The moon phase version has a blue sun light brushed PVD or white lacquered dial, the power reserve indicator is located at 12 o'clock, and the small seconds and moon disc are located at 6 o'clock.

The annual chronograph is different from the blue matte PVD or white lacquered dial, while the chronograph and annual calendar with small seconds are located at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock.

Marine Torpileur Moonphase with blue sunlight brushed PVD dial. Athens Watch

The internally manufactured movements of Marine Torpilleur Panda and Marine Torpilleur Moonphase use a silicon balance spring, while the escape wheel and anchor are made of Diamonsil.

Ulysse Nardin was the first to develop an escapement made of silicon-an ultra-light non-metal whose characteristics make it suitable for micro-mechanical precision, such as watchmaking. This innovative brand then first introduced Diamonsil, a cutting-edge combination of diamonds and silicon in high-end watches.

"The tradition of timing technology is combined with the brand's cutting-edge technology," Bonfiglioli said. "This reflects our desire to always pursue progress and always question what has been achieved. Since 1846, this spirit still exists in Athens today."

Ten years ago, Ulysse Nardin was enriching its craftsmanship by acquiring Donzé Cadrans, an independent enamel company based in Le Locle. Ulysse Nardin was born there in 1846, and Francis Donzé, a master enameller, founded his studio in 1972.

To commemorate the 175th anniversary of the Swiss watchmaker, the two 42mm Marine Torpilleur timepieces use internal enamel dials created by Donzé Cadrans' ancestral fire technology.

There are 175 pieces each in stainless steel Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel and rose gold Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu watches, using traditional Athenian Nautical Observatory chronographs, such as cathedral hands and Roman numerals.

In Ulysse Nardin, the history of the tourbillon observatory can be traced back to the end of the 19th century, when the company manufactured a pocket observatory equipped with a tourbillon escapement to compensate for errors caused by the influence of the earth's gravity on the movement.

Its avant-garde Haute Horlogerie reinvented the regulator, incorporating the resulting constant power Ulysse Anchor Escapement into the mechanism of the Ulysee Anchor Tourbillon. Ulysee Anchor Tourbillon was the winner of the 2015 GPHG.

The commemorative Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu is equipped with an in-house manufactured movement, which features a flying tourbillon with Ulysse Anchor Escapement and blade technology.

The sapphire crystal caseback reveals the automatic movement, while on the black enamel dial, the flying tourbillon performs magic at 6 o'clock, opposite the power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock.